Paris at the End of the World Read online

  Epigraph

  In the old days, men were absorbed in wars, filling all their existence with marches, raids, victories, but now all that is a thing of the past, leaving behind it a great void which there is so far nothing to fill: humanity is searching for it passionately, and of course will find it. Ah, if only it could be quickly!

  ANTON CHEKHOV, Three Sisters, 1901

  Contents

  Epigraph

  Prologue

  1. Two Men in Silk Pajamas

  2. An Ice Cream War

  3. Poetry and Pity

  4. Jean

  5. Chocolate Soldiers

  6. Taxi!

  7. The Taste of Transitoriness

  8. Has Anybody Seen Archie?

  9. The Photograph

  10. Strangers in Paradise

  11. Meeting at Plane Corner

  12. Master of War

  13. Why a War?

  14. Archie Agonistes

  15. The Call to Arms

  16. They Knew

  17. But We Think You Ought to Go

  18. The War to End Wars Inc.

  19. G’day, Digger!

  20. Die Fräulein

  21. The Scholar

  22. On the Secret Shelf

  23. Archie Under Arms

  24. Dressed to Kill

  25. Misery Hill

  26. Bedside Manner

  27. The Way to Kiss a Mary

  28. The Cure for Cockroach

  29. Blighty

  30. Dancing Between the Flames

  31. I Love a Parade!

  32. Every Night Something Awful

  33. The Sammies

  34. Things That Go Bump in the Night

  35. The Beds in the West

  36. Machines

  37. The Zouave’s Trousers

  38. The Stars and Stripes Forever

  39. The City of Darkness

  Epilogue

  Acknowledgments

  Index

  About the Author

  Also by John Baxter

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  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Prologue

  We sit in calm, airy, silent rooms opening upon sunlit and embowered lawns, not a sound except of summer and of husbandry disturbs the peace; but seven million men . . . are in ceaseless battle from the Alps to the Ocean.

  WINSTON CHURCHILL

  The first blow fell on Paris at 7:18 a.m. on March 21, 1918, interrupting the calm of a spring morning.

  As its concussion echoed over the roofs, residents came to their front doors and stared at the sky. Was it another accident, like that of the previous January, when an ammunition dump in Courneuve blew up, shattering windows across the city?

  People living close to the Canal Saint-Martin knew better. A crater had appeared in the wide stone towpath where horses usually dragged barges into the city. They assumed a German bomber had made an audacious solo raid, the pilot fleeing to the safety of his army’s trenches that zigzagged across France from Belgium to the Swiss border.

  Everywhere, Paris displayed dispiriting evidence of its vulnerability to aerial attack. Paper tape crisscrossed shop windows, and the lower portions of most monuments were heaped with sandbags. More bags blocked the doors of such great churches as Notre Dame de Paris. Wooden braces protected priceless stained glass.

  Hoping to lure bombers away from the city, the army was constructing a fake Paris in the sleepy satellite town of Maisons-Laffitte, where a stretch of the Seine resembled the river as it ran through the capital. It included plywood replicas of the Arc de Triomphe and the Opéra, false train tracks, and facsimiles of such industrial suburbs as Saint-Denis and Aubervilliers. Ingenious lighting and translucent paint created the effect of light shining through the dirty glass of factory roofs.

  The second blast, coming only fifteen minutes after the first, dispelled the theory of a high-flying bomber. When a third shell landed fifteen minutes after that, panic gripped Paris. Could a German fifth column be responsible? The labyrinth of underground stone quarries that honeycombed the hills of Montparnasse on the southern edge of the city offered plenty of hiding places. Maybe spies had set up a clandestine battery. This theory didn’t survive the first examination of shrapnel fragments. The shells that materialized from a clear sky each fifteen minutes didn’t come from either bombs or aircraft but from a cannon. Parisians with long memories recalled the siege of 1871 when Prussian artillery pounded portions of the city to rubble. Now, once again, a German gun of frightening power was zeroing in on Paris.

  Forty miles northeast, where a bulge in the line of trenches brought the German positions closest to the city, engineers had been busy for weeks on the slopes of Mont de Joie, near the village of Crépy. Under cover of the forest, they constructed a railway spur line and a deep concrete emplacement—a nest for the greatest internal engine ever devised by man.

  The barrel of the Paris-Geschütz, the Paris Gun, was as tall as a ten-story building. Each explosive charge was ten feet long. With the railway truck on which it stood, the gun weighed four hundred tons. Eighty men were needed to man it—sailors, not artillerymen, since long-barrel precision gunnery was the jealously guarded province of the Kriegsmarine. Each shot expended the power of nine million horses in a gush of orange smoke and flame. The 228-pound projectile left the barrel at a mile a second. Within a minute and a half, it had climbed twenty-four miles, to the edge of space. Three minutes after firing, the shell plunged into a street, a theater, a school, or a church.

  The gun wasn’t hard to find. Once the French realized that its shells fell along a single line, pinpointing its location became a matter of simple ballistics. What followed was a game of hide-and-seek, the French bombing and shelling the area around Crépy, the Germans laboriously shifting the gun to new emplacements and moving other units into the area to confuse aerial spotting.

  French government propagandists encouraged magazines and newspapers to convey an image of a tranquil Paris going about its business; illustrations showed groups of women working on embroidery by a window and concierges chatting on the sidewalk while children played nearby. André Lefèvre, an engineer in the city government, pointed out that “serious results from long-range guns were unlikely, as they were worn out after 80 or 100 shots.” In fact, the barrels of this weapon were sent back to the Krupp factory after only sixty-five firings.

  The Paris Gun—range: 40 miles

  Though it inflicted only modest damage, the Paris-Geschütz taught Paris it was not exempt from war. Penance for this sin of omission was due, and soon paid. Seventy-one people died after a direct hit on the Bolivar métro station. On March 29, 1918—Good Friday—a shell plunged through the roof of the church of Saint-Gervais, in the very heart of the Marais, one of the city’s oldest districts. It killed eighty-eight people and injured seventy-eight—the worst civilian casualties of the war. Next day, all Paris churches closed. Forced underground, the pious worshipped like early Christians, in cellars and catacombs. On Sundays in May and early June children in white veils and suits filed into basements, including that of the Bon Marché department store, to receive their First Communion.

  The French 75—range: six miles

  Before the Germans retired the weapon, it had fired 367 shells, killing 256 people and wounding 620—by trench standards a small loss, but of far greater damage psychologically. Parisians had believed intelligence, wit, and style could protect them from the worst effects of the war. Now they saw that these had the evanescence of a soap bubble. The grace of the belle époque had ended. The madness of les années folles was about to begin.

  1

  Two Men in Silk Pajamas

  He had burned several times t
o enlist. Tales of great movements shook the land. They might not be distinctly Homeric, but there seemed to be much glory in them. He had read of marches, sieges, conflicts, and he had longed to see it all. His busy mind had drawn for him large pictures extravagant in color, lurid with breathless deeds.

  STEPHEN CRANE, The Red Badge of Courage

  In the bleak midwinter of 1916, General Douglas Haig, commander of the Allied armies in Europe, visited the Flanders front to unveil his plans for a spring offensive against the Central Powers of Germany and Austria.

  He made his visit at a black time. In July of 1915, his attempt to break through the German lines had ended in slaughter. Believing that his men would take the enemy trenches without much trouble, he ordered them to advance standing upright, bayonets fixed. Within a few seconds, most were scythed down by fire from machine guns, a weapon Haig thought “much over-rated.”

  The British and French, supported by Canadian, Indian, and Australian volunteers, suffered 420,000 casualties during this campaign, 60,000 on the first day. The French alone lost 200,000 men and the Germans nearly 500,000 before the fighting halted in November for the winter and the war froze into stalemate.

  To outline his plans for 1917, Haig called a conference of commanders. Few large buildings survived in the forward areas, but his staff found an intact château near the Belgian town of Nieuwpoort.

  They didn’t know it was already occupied.

  During the first weeks of the war, Polish countess Misia Sert, one of the most fashionable hostesses in Paris, persuaded General Joseph-Simon Gallieni, the military governor, to authorize a private ambulance service. She would fit out the delivery vans of couturiers Paul Poiret and Jean Patou, which were sitting unused since all their staff had been drafted to make uniforms.

  Poiret, before he left to create a new greatcoat for the army, designed an outfit for Misia’s group: dark blue, gold buttons, collar flared, jacket theatrically skirted. His best illustrator, Paul Iribe, also joined Sert but preferred his own version of protective clothing: a deep-sea diver’s suit, complete with solid brass helmet.

  Other recruits included the young poet Jean Cocteau, a regular at Sert’s salon in her Quai Voltaire apartment, overlooking the Seine and the Louvre. Cocteau recognized their motivation as less compassion than curiosity. The curtain was about to go up on the greatest first night of the century, more sensational even than the 1913 premiere of Igor Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring, and they were determined to have front-row seats. “They were going behind the scenes of the drama,” he wrote of the group. “They were like music-lovers in the dress circle listening to Stravinsky, leaning over the dark stalls.”

  For two years, Cocteau crisscrossed the war zone with Sert’s group, then joined another formed by Count Etienne de Beaumont, famous for the costume balls at which he often appeared in elaborate drag. They fluttered behind the lines like butterflies, distributing cigarettes, candy, and other treats to the troops, and occasionally, though they had no medical training, ferrying casualties back to dressing stations. The much they saw that was horrible made them more anxious than ever to think about something else.

  Jean Cocteau in Paul Poiret uniform

  In December 1916, they arrived in the area near Nieuwpoort, located a surviving château, and commandeered the best rooms. After a leisurely bath, the two men spent the afternoon trying on their most exquisite outfits, choosing finally two pairs of colorful silk pajamas. Scented, rouged, and powdered, with bracelets jingling at ankles and wrists, they descended to the salon, expecting to dine in solitary elegance—only to find General Haig and the entire high command huddled over maps spread out on the largest table.

  For a frozen moment, rival visions of war stared at one another.

  On one side, two exemplars of the Parisian way of life—theatrical, sophisticated, sensual. On the other, a humorless disciplinarian who embodied the puritan values of duty, country, service.

  Cocteau and Beaumont excused themselves and crept back to their rooms to giggle at the looks on the staff officers’ faces, while the “real” soldiers, shaking their heads in disbelief, returned to the business of planning death.

  How could two such radically opposed cultures fight on the same side? What was the nature of the civilization they were battling to preserve?

  Count Etienne de Beaumont

  And what was my paternal grandfather, William Archie Baxter, of Burrawang, New South Wales, doing in the middle of it?

  Well, it was that kind of a war.

  2

  An Ice Cream War

  The War That Will End War

  H. G. WELLS, title of a book, 1914

  In the summer of 1914, while all of Europe was on holiday, German troops flooded through Belgium, across the sand dunes and salt marshes of Flanders, and into northern France. Only a desperate counterattack by the French and British halted them at the river Marne, forty miles from Paris. France was saved by the city’s military governor, General Gallieni, who rushed reinforcements to the battle in a fleet of taxis.

  Until the armistice of November 1918, the so-called western front, a double line of trenches separated by a no man’s land of barbed wire and mud, zigzagged from the English Channel to the Swiss border. The phrase im Westen nichts Neues—literally, “in the west, nothing new”—became so familiar to Germans that Erich Maria Remarque used it as the title of a best-selling novel, published in English as All Quiet on the Western Front.

  The narrow gaze of the cinema has left us with an eye-level vision of this war: a few yards of muddy ground, pitted with shell craters, swept by machine gun fire. Asked to describe the sector where he won his Medal of Honor, Sergeant Alvin York said, “I occupied one space in a fifty-mile front. I saw so little it hardly seems worthwhile discussing it.”

  Even strategists couldn’t grasp the totality of this troglodyte warren, almost five hundred miles long and often miles across. Jean Cocteau called it “an incredible labyrinth of corridors, roads and underground galleries.” Wilfred Owen arrived at the front for the first time after “a march of three miles over shelled road, then nearly three along a flooded trench”—flooded because large parts of the front were below the water table.

  Douglas Haig’s description of preparations for his 1917 “big push” hints at the scale of the world’s first industrial war.

  Vast stocks of ammunition and stores of all kinds had to be accumulated. Many miles of new railways—both standard and narrow gauge—and trench tramways were laid. All available roads were improved, many others made, and long causeways built over marshy valleys. Many additional dug-outs had to be provided as shelter for the troops, for use as dressing stations for the wounded, and as magazines for storing ammunition, food, water, and engineering material. Scores of miles of deep communication trenches had to be dug, as well as trenches for telephone wires, assembly and assault trenches, and numerous gun emplacements and observation posts. Many wells and borings were sunk, and over one hundred pumping plants installed. More than one hundred and twenty miles of water mains were laid.

  With northern France cut off from its industries and farms, everything had to come from Britain, its dominions, and the Americas. Most of it poured through the port of Le Havre, at the mouth of the river Seine. In the area between the front and the English Channel, farms, villages, whole towns disappeared under an avalanche of goods, equipment, animals, people, and the materials to feed them. One supply center alone covered twelve square miles. A twenty-five-mile area from the front to Amiens became a military town, fed by new roads lined with shell dumps and encampments.

  From the front, hundreds of supply lines snaked back to the Channel. Traffic in that direction was mainly the wounded and dead. Stretcher bearers carried casualties to dressing stations where doctors decided who justified treatment and who could not be saved. The fortunate won evacuation to the hospital port of Etaples, and thence to Britain for care and convalescence.

  Sixty-five million men and women fought in what is va
riously called the First German War, la guerre de ’14, the Great War, the European War, and World War I. The French, the Americans, the British, and their allies from the dominions, Australia, India, and Canada, lost 9,407,136 soldiers and civilians; the Austro-German Central powers, 7,153,241: 5 percent of their combined populations. Just as many more were wounded.

  Troops of the Allied armies, Paris, 4 July 1916

  Some lived that war in blood and mud. Others ate ice cream.

  The slaughters of the Somme, Belleau Wood, and Verdun can obscure the fact that, for each combatant who endured these horrors, just as many never fired a shot. They hauled freight, shuffled papers, nursed the wounded, buried the dead, wrote requisitions, drew maps, cooked meals, wrangled horses and mules, or, in the pungent phrase of General George Patton about a later war, “shoveled shit in Louisiana.”

  My father’s father, Archie Baxter, belonged to this army of the unremarkable. He volunteered in Sydney in May 1916 to serve in the Australian Imperial Force and arrived in Le Havre at the end of that year. The war ended in November 1918 and he returned home early in 1919. He was never promoted above private, won no medals, earned no commendations.

  What happened to him during those two years? Nobody in our family knew—except that the experience left him somehow harmed. Everyone agrees that for the rest of his life, he remained troubled and dissatisfied, haunted by memories of France.

  3

  Poetry and Pity

  Ancient and Unteachable, abide—abide the Trumpets!

  Once again the Trumpets, for the shuddering ground-swell brings

  Clamour over ocean of the harsh, pursuing Trumpets—

  Trumpets of the Vanguard that have sworn no truce with Kings!

  RUDYARD KIPLING, The Old Issue

  A century of myth-making has left us with a one-sided vision of the Great War. It often seems a slow-motion horror story, an opera of mud and blood, performed to a musical score one part “Land of Hope and Glory,” one part “Mademoiselle from Armentières.”