A Year in Paris Read online

  Paris in the snow, 1879.

  Férat, M. Paris sous la neige. In Le Monde illustré, December 13, 1879.

  Dedication

  To Marie-Dominique and Louise,

  around whom my world turns.

  Epigraph

  Between the Swiss snows and the icy winter fogs of Germany on the one side, and the mists and rain and perpetual dampness of England on the other, her cool mild sky shot with veiled sunlight overhung a land of temperate beauty and temperate wealth. Farther north, man might grow austere or gross, farther south idle and improvident: France offered the happy mean which the poets are forever celebrating, and the French were early aware that the poets were right.

  —Edith Wharton, French Ways and Their Meaning

  Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Dedication

  Epigraph

  Introduction: Harvest of Dreams

  1A Winter’s Tale

  2What Is It about France?

  3Dog Days

  4On an Island in the Seine

  5Christmas with Kangaroos

  6The Seine in Flood

  7I Spy Strangers

  8Getting to Know the French

  9As If It Were Yesterday

  10Stormy Monday

  11Tock . . . Tock . . . Tock . . .

  12Baby Time

  13Something to Kill

  14Starting Over

  15The New Era

  16On the Beach

  17Enter Fabre, Pursued by a Bear

  18Saying Less, Meaning More

  19Tall Poppies

  20If Winter Comes . . .

  21Bloody Days

  22April in Paris

  23A Boy Named Wheelbarrow

  24Hot Hot Hot

  25Re-enter Fabre

  26Singin’ in the Rain

  27Pinups

  28Drunk in Charge

  29Exit Fabre

  30Taking the Waters

  31Enter Napoléon

  32Watch It Come Down

  33Who Was That Masked Man?

  34Night of the Scythe

  35One Perfect Rose

  36The Darling Buds of May

  37Gleaners

  38Something Fishy

  39Vive Le Mistral!

  40One-Man Show

  41Eating In

  42A Man Made of Flowers

  43Poets

  44Night Creatures

  45The Weather at War

  46The Pendulum Passes

  Postscript

  Important Dates and Events

  Acknowledgments

  Photography and Art Credits

  Index

  About the Author

  Also by John Baxter

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Introduction: Harvest of Dreams

  Paris 8me. Sunday, June 1990. 18°C. Blue skies, and towers of white cumulus, looking as solid as cauliflowers, boiling up toward the jet stream. A light breeze carries the native odors of a city, black coffee, unfiltered tobacco, gasoline.

  SOMETIMES IT SIMPLY HAPPENS. YOU JUST KNOW. SO I CAN REMEMBER to the day when I first learned of the love affair between Paris and the seasons.

  I was, I suppose, in a state of hypersensitivity, attuned to the subtlest of signals. Just a year before I had been happily settled in Los Angeles, living at last in the city I’d selected as my spiritual home after reading the novels of Raymond Chandler in adolescence and seeing the films of Billy Wilder. The years in Europe and my native Australia were like old snapshots, colors faded by the Californian sun. That past and those people no longer existed. I woke each morning to a perpetual present in the city acknowledged as the capital of Now.

  My fantasy survived a little more than a year. Then a woman reappeared from that past, and overnight I just knew—that imperative again—that in defiance of all logic I had to follow her to France, of whose language I spoke barely a word and where I knew no one but her.

  Seven months had passed, and I still moved around Paris with the caution of an earthquake survivor, hand never far from a railing, not sure the ground wouldn’t once again open beneath my feet.

  A friend had phoned that Sunday morning in June 1990 to babble, “You must take a look at the Champs-Élysées today. You won’t believe it!”

  The more I pressed him about what I’d see, the more evasive he became. “I don’t want to ruin it. Just . . . go!”

  So as an escalator at the Franklin D. Roosevelt metro station carried me up to street level, I still had no idea what to expect.

  Emerging into the sunlight, I looked up the hill toward the Arc de Triomphe . . . and found that my friend was right. I didn’t believe it.

  Overnight, one of the widest and busiest avenues in Paris had become a field of wheat. Grain, waist-high, filled the street to the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the hill.

  On both sides of the avenue the pavement was clear, and cross streets had been kept open for emergency vehicles. In a few small enclosures scattered around the edges, people demonstrated country crafts: basket weaving, sheep shearing. Otherwise, there was just wheat.

  Steel barriers enclosed the field. I grabbed one and, resisting the pull of the crowd pouring up behind me from the metro, hung on as I took in the sight. A man in a shapeless smock, a straw hat, and bare feet came out of a cross street, leading a cart pulled by two oxen. He was chewing a stalk of wheat and appeared unconcerned at blocking a thoroughfare where on a normal day it was almost a capital offense to pause, let alone park.

  The Champs-Élysées under wheat, 1990.

  Photograph by the author.

  I stayed there for the rest of the afternoon, caught in an eddy of time that returned Paris 1990 to an era three centuries in the past, when no laws applied except those of the seasons. The Arc de Triomphe dominated the hilltop, celebrating the victories of Napoléon Bonaparte, but this was no day for emperors. The wheat, bowing lazily in the breeze, put worldly pomp in its place. One saw why Katharine Lee Bates, who wrote the lyrics of “America the Beautiful,” specified “amber waves of grain” as an element of the new nation. No wonder the presidential hopes of Michael Dukakis never recovered from his 1989 suggestion to Iowa’s corn farmers that they replant with such boutique vegetables as Belgian endive. Fields of grain were the irreducible minimum of a civilization, the rock on which it stood.

  Implicit in the presence of this field here today in the heart of Paris was the message that France, with the same population as Britain but three times the area, belonged to those who controlled the land. Defy them, as Louis XVI had done in 1789, and you risked being handed your head.

  At that time of year, the setting sun lingers for a few minutes in the very center of the Arc de Triomphe, sending a blaze of light the length of the Champs-Élysées. As it did so, engines growled on the other side of the arch. A minute later, a line of combine harvesters belching smoke lumbered into sight and crawled toward us, devouring the wheat.

  In their wake rose a golden cloud of dust from which materialized hundreds of young men and women, each carrying a spear shaped like a wheat stalk. From the watchers rose a collective sigh of satisfaction and awe.

  That night’s television news explained that the day had been a demonstration by 1,500 farmers on behalf of French agriculture. Three thousand six hundred tons of wheat, grown to maturity around Paris on pallets, were trucked in overnight to stun us three hundred thousand who came to gawk.

  Politics had provided the pretext, but one sensed that the farmers would have staged this show just for the pleasure of it. They had gone into the streets often in the past, sometimes to celebrate but more often, as in this case, to warn. The beliefs behind such manifestations were already ancient when Christianity came squalli
ng into the world. Between France, the land, and the seasons, it was a matter of blood.

  1

  A Winter’s Tale

  Richebourg, Île–de–France. December 1990. 1 degree below zero C. Hailstones rattle like gravel against double layers of glass. Beyond, in a gray murk of near–horizontal freezing rain, ancient trees, trunks sodden and black, lurk like gallows.

  Had the weather been this bad in Bethlehem, Jesus would have imitated the ancient gods and waited until spring to be born.

  SIX MONTHS LATER, I TRIED TO RECAPTURE A SENSE OF THAT DAY: the glare; the grain’s dry, vegetal smell; the sting of the sun through my thin jacket. It was hopeless. However warm the memory, the chill of December quenched it.

  For almost a week storms had battered the sixteenth–century house in Richebourg, one hundred kilometers from Paris, where we were spending the holidays.

  The house, my mother–in–law’s country home, was an unexpected dividend of marrying into an old French family. Hand–hewn chestnut beams, already old when Bonaparte became emperor, supported this onetime farmhouse that in its indestructibility could have served as a metaphor for France’s landowners, the backbone of the nation.

  The church and the aristocracy, known as the First and Second Estates, barely survived the revolution of 1789, but if that bloody conflict had a winner, it was the Third Estate: the landowners, farmers, and people in business

  As unrest bubbled in January 1789, Abbé Sieyès, the most perceptive and charismatic of spokesmen for the disenfranchised, warned of the cost should this segment of the population, the nation’s most numerous, be further ignored. “What is the Third Estate?” he demanded rhetorically. “Everything. What has it been until now in the political order? Nothing. What does it want to be? Something.” Within five years the king and his family were dead, along with most of the privileged classes.

  Since then, the influence of primary producers has grown. To a degree greater in France than in any other country, rural life, its products and manifestations, and the effects of nature and the seasons influence thought, language, literature, religion, art, and politics.

  Warm and dry behind a meter of stone as the storm raged, I couldn’t help feeling smug. Somewhere out there our neighbors were celebrating France’s best–loved feast, but they might as well have been on the moon.

  The table was cleared of the debris from the lunch for twenty that my wife, Marie–Dominique, our daughter, Louise, and I had, in what had become a tradition, prepared and served. (Foie gras, guinea fowl capon, gratin dauphinois, haricots verts, pavlova maison.) In this hierarchical society I was technically the chef, a duty I’d accepted almost as soon as I arrived in France—my passport into a family of painters, academics, and authors, none of whom could boil water without a recipe.

  Meal over, older guests had reconvened at the other end of the house to gossip with my aunt–in–law Françoise, who, as the village mayor, stood guard over decades of scandal. A creak from overhead signaled where a couple of younger cousins had sneaked off for some stolen sex in one of the tiny bedrooms wedged under the eaves, where the beds, carpentered from local timber early in the nineteenth century and topped with sheets of linen and quilts stuffed with goose feathers, were drenched in generations of erotic history.

  But what had become of our friend Paul, the sole Englishman at the table? The lunch had been his introduction to the French holiday. He’d appeared to take it in his stride, chatting with his neighbors on either side and accepting without obvious disappointment the absence of a Christmas pudding.

  I hadn’t seen him since he helped clear away the dishes. If he had any sense, he was probably, like me, getting ready for a postprandial snooze.

  Settling deeper into the chair, I eased off my shoes and closed my eyes . . .

  Paul appeared in the doorway. Rubbing his hands together, he peered through the window into the sleet and freezing mist.

  “Looks like it’s clearing up,” he said. “Fancy a stroll?”

  2

  What Is It about France?

  Rue Férou, Paris 6me. July 1927. 1 a.m. Dizzy from three bottles of wine shared with Archibald MacLeish, Ernest Hemingway, unused to modern plumbing, yanks what he believes to be the lavatory flush in his new apartment and instead pulls a skylight down on his head. Waiting to be sewn up at the American Hospital of Paris in Neuilly, he’s reminded by the pain, blood, and chloroform of being blown up on the Italian front in 1918. The idea of a novel based on those experiences forms in his head; call it A Farewell to Arms.

  AS OF 2017, THE WORLD’S TOP TEN PREFERRED TOURIST DESTINATIONS, in order of popularity, were France, the United States, Spain, China, Italy, the United Kingdom, Germany, Mexico, Thailand, and Malaysia.

  Anything seem odd about this list?

  Most people traveling to Spain, Italy, Mexico, Thailand, and Malaysia cite “climate” as an attraction. All are warm countries. Many visitors to the United States likewise head for Florida, California, and Nevada—sunshine states.

  And yet France, not notably sunny nor rich in tourist resorts and, moreover, hampered by a difficult language and a population not always welcoming to foreigners, tops the list, and has done so consistently for decades.

  What is it about France?

  The words change, but the question people ask is always the same: Why do we idealize France above so many other countries?

  Not that the others don’t have their champions. A villa in Tuscany figures in the fantasies of many. For others, it’s the sun of Greece or Spain. A smaller percentage seeks the asceticism of Scandinavia or the sprawl of Russia and China. Some even raise their voices in favor of Australia.

  As for cities, it would be a dull stick who was not drawn to Rome’s antiquities, the seething energy of Beijing and Tokyo, culturally rich New York and Berlin, the pageantry of Madrid, the grace of Saint Petersburg, and what Jorge Luis Borges called the “splintered labyrinth” of London.

  But no capital excites the passions like Paris. Berlin, far from being a moveable feast, remains stubbornly immobile. No woman speaks with longing of “a Brussels dress,” nor do we, in search of culinary excellence, head for Zurich. And not even the most bittersweet reminiscence of Prague or Lisbon or Athens conveys the poignancy of “I remember . . . once . . . in Paris . . .”

  So I ask again: What is it about France?

  Truthfully, we who live here can no more understand our fidelity than we can analyze the attraction of a loved one. The question belongs with that other exasperated query, “What do you see in him?”

  I had plenty of time to ponder this question as I suited up that Christmas Day for my walk with Paul. Only when I’d wrapped myself in enough heavy clothing for a trip on a deep–sea trawler did I dare step outside and guide him down the village’s main street.

  We were, not surprisingly, entirely alone. Even the dogs that on a normal day would have signaled our passing with a barrage of barks and snarls had the sense to remain indoors. Before Pieter Brueghel in the sixteenth century, European artists shunned winter, painting only green fields and sunny skies. One could see why. December was not a month of which anybody would wish to be reminded.

  I led Paul around the highlights of Richebourg, such as they were: Its sole shop, shuttered and derelict since supermarkets opened in nearby towns. The marketplace next door, once the site of busy trade on weekends with farmers selling their produce, now used as overflow parking for the village’s biggest employer, a hospital for brain–damage cases. Many of them were survivors of accidents on France’s widely admired freeways, like the one a kilometer away, whose traffic was audible on quieter nights.

  Rural decline was nothing new. Richebourg had been going downhill since the Middle Ages. Farmworkers weren’t the only people forced off the land by mechanization. The thirteenth–century church where Louise had been christened was, as usual, bolted shut. With religion at a low ebb, mass was celebrated here only one Sunday in four, the same priest serving three other dioceses
in rotation. For the christening, we’d had to hire a priest from a pool of the unemployed. He arrived with his own vestments, like a bit–part actor who supplies his own tuxedo. Have Faith, Will Travel.

  A narrow lane between rough stone walls led to the village’s communal laundry. The oblong pond, fed by a spring and edged in granite slabs, where generations of women had knelt to pound their washing, looked almost quaint, though the thought of immersing my hands in that gray water was enough to freeze my blood.

  Yet Paul, even as we trudged into a wind loaded with stinging fragments of ice, seemed to be enjoying himself.

  There was a Viking strain in the British character that drew them to harsh places: T. E. Lawrence to Arabia, Robert Falcon Scott to Antarctica, George Mallory to Everest. Before Mallory left for the ascent from which he never returned, someone asked why he was risking his life to climb a mountain. One can imagine the pitying look with which he gave his famous response: “Because it’s there.”

  The British are, after all, the only nation with a Christmas carol that actually celebrates the cold. Who else would sing words like this?

  In the bleak midwinter, frosty wind made moan,

  Earth stood hard as iron, water like a stone;

  Snow had fallen, snow on snow, snow on snow,

  In the bleak midwinter, long ago.

  I’d heard Paul argue that fresh air ventilated the sinuses and cleansed the lungs. In this spirit, whole generations of Britons had endured cold showers and plunged into ponds from which the ice had barely been chipped. As a boy, travel writer Eric Newby was taught to sniff some saltwater every morning. “As a result,” he wrote in his memoir Something Wholesale: My Life and Times in the Rag Trade, “I contracted sinusitis, and was told by a specialist I consulted that this was an outmoded exercise that led to acute inflammation of the nasal cavities.” Ronald Reagan articulated the American view of such practices. Of his presidential opponent Jimmy Carter he said, “A man who says he enjoys a cold shower every morning will lie about other things.”